juices

BigDickOffroad.com > juices
CategoriesBoating Lifestyle
Post By info

Dick, Are Antler Point Restrictions an Acceptable Form of Deer Management?

If you’re into chasing bucks and hitting the backcountry in a built rig, you’ve probably heard the term Antler Point Restrictions (APRs) get thrown around. The idea? Only harvest bucks with a certain number of points—usually 3 or 4 on one side—so younger deer get to grow up and “become something.”

Cool theory. But does it actually help? Or is it just another rule that looks good on a clipboard and does nothing in the real world?

Let’s break it down—Big Dick Offroad style.

What APRs Say They Do

Wildlife agencies pitch APRs as a way to protect young bucks and build a stronger, older-age-class herd. More mature bucks means better breeding, bigger racks, and happier trophy hunters.

If you’re looking to hang something heavy on the wall, or you’re about long-term herd health, it can be a solid strategy.

What They Actually Do (Sometimes)

Here’s where it gets messy. APRs don’t always work like they’re supposed to—especially in areas where the terrain is gnarly, game is scattered, and access depends on whether your rig can make it up a washed-out two-track.

  • In low-density areas, you might never see a legal buck.

  • Meanwhile, does multiply like crazy, wrecking habitat and pushing younger deer out.

  • And if you’re just looking to fill a cooler, APRs can leave you standing there thinking, “I could’ve shot three today, but they were all ‘illegal.’”

It’s not conservation if it kills opportunity and jacks up balance.

The Off-Road Hunter’s Angle

This is where the off-road lifestyle and deer management crash into each other.

Most folks reading this aren’t tree-stand weekend warriors. You’re hauling gear 20 miles up a logging road in a lifted van or locking hubs on a rocky climb before dawn. You know that the real work starts where the pavement ends.

So here’s how APRs affect our game:

  • More restrictions = more people crammed in the same zones looking for the same “legal” buck. Overcrowded trailheads. Pressure all over the place. Less solitude.

  • Deeper hunts = bigger demand on your rig. APRs often mean passing on deer and pushing farther in. If your vehicle sucks, good luck.

  • Local terrain needs local rules. You can’t slap the same antler restriction across wide-open plains, dense forest, and high-mountain backcountry and expect it to work everywhere. Nature doesn’t run on blanket policies.

So, Is It Working?

Sometimes. But not always. APRs might help in high-density areas with balanced herds and plenty of cover.

In real-deal off-road country? It depends. If it’s not backed by data and tuned to the terrain, it’s just another layer of red tape between you and a clean, ethical harvest.

Final Word

At Big Dick Offroad, we’re all about access, freedom, and respect for the land. Whether you’re wrenching on your rig or packing out an old bruiser of a buck, it’s about doing it right and doing it smart.

Antler Point Restrictions can be part of that—but only if they’re backed by boots-on-the-ground logic. Otherwise, leave the wildlife alone and let real hunters and land stewards handle business.

Want to make your backcountry setup hunt-ready? We’ve got the gear. We’ve got the upgrades. And we’ve got your six when the trail turns rough.

Big Dick Offroad. Go farther. Hunt harder. No compromises.

CategoriesLifestyle Tips & Tricks
Post By info

How to Clean Your Favorite Off-Road Vehicle After Going Off-Grid

Because Mud Is Temporary, but Rust Is Forever

We get it—you’re not afraid to send it. Mud holes, river crossings, dusty canyons, rocky switchbacks—you built your rig for this. But just because you use it like a beast doesn’t mean you should leave it like one.

If you’re serious about off-roading, cleaning your rig isn’t just about looks. It’s about protecting your investment, keeping parts working, and making sure the next ride isn’t the one that leaves you stranded.

Here’s how we do it at Big Dick Offroad—no fluff, just facts.

1. Don’t Wait. Clean It ASAP.

Letting mud, sand, or salty grime sit is the fastest way to eat through paint, seize up bearings, and trigger rust in all the wrong places.

After you unload:

  • Hose it down right away—don’t wait days

  • Focus on undercarriage and wheel wells first

  • Remove caked-on mud before it dries like concrete

Pro tip: A pressure washer is your best friend. If you don’t have one, find a self-serve car wash bay and bring your own degreaser.

2. Undercarriage: The Forgotten War Zone

You think your paint job took a hit? Wait until you look underneath. The undercarriage catches everything—mud, gravel, salt, roadkill, whatever.

Clean it like this:

  • Use a pressure washer or undercarriage wand

  • Get into the suspension, control arms, skid plates, and diffs

  • Check for anything hanging loose, leaking, or bent

Don’t forget: Spray out your frame rails. Mud sitting in there will rust you out from the inside.

3. Engine Bay: Spray Smart

You don’t need a spotless engine bay, but you also don’t want a grease trap that cooks your components.

What to do:

  • Cover air intake and electrical connections with plastic bags

  • Use degreaser on dirty spots

  • Rinse gently—low pressure, cool water

Let it dry fully before firing it up. That steam cloud you see after a hard spray-down? Not ideal.

4. Interior: Sand, Dirt, and Stank Be Gone

Off-grid trips mean dirty boots, spilled coffee, jerky crumbs, and gear funk.

To clean it out:

  • Pull floor mats, vacuum everything

  • Wipe dash, door panels, and console with a mild cleaner

  • Hit the seats with a damp microfiber cloth

  • If it smells like a gym locker, throw in a charcoal bag or ozone bomb

If your rig has a rubberized floor or drain plugs? Even better—hose that sucker out.

5. Don’t Forget the Details

Want your rig to look like it just conquered hell and came back clean? Hit these extras:

  • Clean your lights—mud reduces brightness, which can be deadly at night

  • Scrub wheels and brake calipers (brake dust = corrosion)

  • Check your winch and recovery gear—clean, dry, and re-spool the line

  • Re-lube door seals and suspension components if needed

Final Touch: Finish with a coat of spray wax or ceramic to make next time easier. Mud sticks less. Cleaning goes quicker.

Final Word

You don’t baby your rig. Good. That’s not what it’s built for. But if you’re going to ride hard, clean smart. Maintenance = freedom. And the cleaner your machine, the less downtime you’ll have when adventure calls again.

So grab that pressure washer, pop the hood, and give your beast the post-mission reset it deserves.

Big Dick Offroad. Built to get dirty. Ready to clean up.

Add to cart